Common Attic Insulation Mistakes
Most insulation contractors know that a successful attic insulation installation needs meticulous attention to detail. However, many attics have been improperly insulated, whether by the homeowner or by a professional and are now losing a significant amount of energy.
A homeowner may approach you because their energy bills are too high or their house feels cold despite the fact that it is well insulated. To fix the problem, you’ll have to identify and remedy any previous mistakes, and you’ll have to relocate the existing insulation to find the problem areas. During your inspection, keep an eye out for these common mistakes.
The attic floor is not air-sealed
Insulation is only half of the issue when it comes to saving energy. The other part is air sealing, which entails securing all openings in the attic. Both new construction and retrofit projects require it. Caulk and expanding foam from a can are used to seal any visible cracks or holes. Wherever possible, apply firestop or fire barrier caulks.
Remember that fiberglass or cellulose insulation cannot be used to air seal an attic. These materials are essential for controlling the temperature in a home, they do not prevent air from leaking in. The largest energy savings will come from a combination of air sealing and batt or blown-in insulation.
Gaps In The Existing Insulation
Insulation prevents conductive heat movement, so even a little gap between the insulation and the attic floor can cancel the material’s insulating properties. Fill up any gaps in the existing insulation, as well as any parts that are missing, and make sure the insulation is in full contact with the attic floor.
The Eave Vents Are Covered With Insulation
Mold, moisture, and possible damage to structural components can all be avoided with proper attic ventilation. Install ready-made baffles between the roof rafters to keep the eave vents clear of obstructions. They’ll keep the airstream open and keep the loose-fill insulation from moving.
There are noninsulation contact (IC) rated recessed lights.
To prevent fires, traditional can lights should be placed with a barrier that keeps the insulation at least 3 inches away from the light fixture. This is a significant waste of energy. Replace the fittings with airtight IC-rated fixtures to fix the problem. These can be insulated and caulked to create an airtight barrier between the trim and the ceiling. Another alternative is to use a fireproof cap over the current light and caulk it to the attic floor.
Improperly sealed knee wall
An attic knee wall is a vertical barrier that separates attic space from conditioned space on one side. If the attic itself is insulated, the other side of the knee wall is not. If the nonliving side of the wall includes fiberglass or cellulose insulation, the insulation should be covered by an air barrier like drywall. Any wall penetrations, such as those for receptacle boxes, must be sealed as if the wall were an outside wall.
The rigid foam should be used to seal the floor joist channels beneath the bottom plate of the knee wall. So if the attic floor joists on the nonliving side of the wall are insulated with air-permeable fiberglass or cellulose, the channels allow warm air from the living room to escape.
Proper attic insulation makes a significant impact in a home’s energy efficiency. Pay close attention to the details to ensure that your homes are properly sealed and insulated.